Friday 1st May, 2015
The journey from Zadar to Split took about three hours, and although the bus was hot, cramped and claustrophobic, the views of the Dalmatian Coast made it worthwhile. Stepping off the bus, Jack and I were met with thick, humid air that seemed to cling to us instantly. Locals crowded around us with offers for accommodations, each one eager to rent us their room or apartment. Cranky and on edge, we dodged through the desperation, trying to keep our irritability in check.
The walk to the hostel was tougher than we’d hoped, and the weight of our backpacks seemed to double in the sticky heat, making me even more irritable. If we didn’t find our hostel within the next few minutes, I felt like I might just lose it.
But finally, stepping into Back Pack Sack felt like an instant reward. Cool, air-conditioned air swept over me, bringing a wave of relief. The hostel was small, peaceful, and brightly decorated, with a welcoming vibe that felt right. Suzie, the manager and owner, was warm and bubbly, inviting us into the kitchen for coffee and biscuits to chat and unwind. Feeling recharged and ready to discover Split, we set out from the hostel, excitement slowly replacing all traces of our earlier frustrations.
 |
| The beautiful houses of Split |
 |
| Side streets of Split Old Town |
Though Split was framed by the sea, mountains, and architecture, the crowds and heat made it hard to soak in the Croatian culture, as all portside restaurants were packed and pricey. So, Jack and I decided to slip into one of the quieter side streets in search of a more affordable spot.
After a glass of white wine and a slightly expensive Mediterranean salad, we set out to explore the town. We took our time wandering through Diocletian's Palace—a stunning Roman complex that forms the heart of Split’s Old Town and even made its mark in seasons 4 and 5 of Game of Thrones. Despite the bustle, it was beautiful in a way that only centuries-old ruins can be.
 |
| The centre of Diocletian's Palace |
 |
| An ancient tomb in Diocletian's Palace |
Apparently, Croatia is famous for some of the best seafood in Europe, and I couldn’t wait to finally try it. Before we filled our bellies, we decided to check out the nightlife first along with Lena, a sweet Colombian girl who we had met at the hostel. All three of us made our way to Charlie's Bar—a lively spot highly recommended for backpackers alike.
The bar had a quirky charm, decorated with keepsakes and mementoes left by past travellers, and the drinks were a bargain. A few pitchers of beer, some questionable dance moves, and plenty of laughter later, our appetites grew, so we set out to find some food. I’d been craving seafood all day, so I ordered a seafood platter before I had even sat down. When the waiter placed it in front of me, my mouth watered with anticipation. But as I bit into a prawn and sampled the baby squid, disappointment quickly replaced my excitement. The rubbery, pale grey prawns were dreadful, and the rest of the platter tasted bland and far from fresh. For a place by the seafront that boasts of “fresh fish,” serving frozen seafood was a massive letdown—maybe it was karma for blowing our daily budget yet again!
After our underwhelming meal, we returned to the hostel, ready for a good night’s sleep before heading out of Split the next day.
Overall, I’d say Split is a lively and vibrant city, balancing tradition with modern energy. Though it’s undeniably beautiful and full of sights to admire, it can be a bit pricey for budget travellers. Still, I’d recommend it—it's a photographer’s dream and a great way to experience the laid-back Dalmatian lifestyle. Just be sure to steer clear of the seafood unless you’re certain it’s fresh!
.png)