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| Croatian traditions on the streets of Zagreb |
Sunday 26th April, 2015
Surrounded by a courtyard of towering baroque buildings, my first thought was that Zagreb had a kind of quiet elegance I hadn’t anticipated. As my boyfriend, Jack and I strolled aimlessly down the streets, it took me a moment to fully realise we were in Croatia, the country I’d most looked forward to visiting.
We had booked a private Airbnb room for just £8.50 a night—cheaper than a hostel! Our room had a private bathroom and access to a shared kitchen, lounge area, and, the holy grail for weary travellers, a washing machine. Just as I was revelling in this small victory, we were warmly welcomed by Bozena, the mother's host. Bozena was so sweet and welcoming that we instantly felt at home. We spent an hour chatting and swapping stories—our fairly ordinary upbringing contrasted with her experiences growing up along the Yugoslavian border.
After giving us a rundown on Zagreb and all it had to offer, we realised we hadn’t exchanged any money yet—rookie mistake. Since it was Sunday and the banks were closed, Bozena offered to exchange some Euros for Croatian Kuna on the spot. We were surprised and grateful for her generosity; it’s rare for a stranger to be so helpful without hesitation.
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| Beautiful hand painted souvenirs in Zagreb |
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| 'Voodoo Sangria' and Tapas at Mio Corazon |
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| St Mark's Church, Zagreb |
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| Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb |
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| Souvenirs in the Museum of Broken Relationsho |
Monday 27th April, 2015
After a few hours exploring Croatia's capital, I quickly decided that Zagreb was my least favourite city so far. It felt scattered, with no real standout spots. While there’s plenty to see, I found it a bit plain and thought it didn’t capture the vibrant spirit of Croatia as I’d hoped.
We dined at a Spanish tapas place called Mio Corazon, where we tried a wild cocktail called 'Voodoo Sangria', which promised to “turn you into a zombie.” Naturally, we had to test that claim—and let’s just say it lived up to its name!
Once the zombie effects had worn off and I switched to feeling human again, we visited St. Mark’s Church, famous for its beautiful mosaic roof, and the Museum of Broken Relationships, which became the main highlight of my time in Croatia. The museum was deeply moving; it’s filled with donated items from people all over the world, each telling a personal story about love and loss. Walking through, I was swept up in a whirlwind of emotions, captivated by these intimate glimpses into strangers’ lives. The museum was filled with memory, truth, passion, pain, and a sense of wonder and regret—a truly profound experience.
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| Booze and Blues Bar, Zagreb |
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| Saxophone for a beer tap at Booze and Blues Bar |
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| A record shop really taking advantage of its recycling |
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| Beautiful flowers compliment the streets of Zagreb |
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| Aw, just like the movies |
After the museum, we wandered through the streets in search of some local cuisine. After about ten minutes of indecisive wandering, a guy named Abdul overheard our struggle and suggested a spot he highly recommended. He seemed genuine, and we decided to follow him—which turned out to be a great call. Abdul led us to a fantastic little restaurant where we had one of the best (and cheapest) burgers we’d ever tried. So much for traditional Croatian food, but it was worth it!
Abdul was from Leicester, practically a neighbour back in England (as we are from Coventry). He ran an architectural company and split his time between England and Croatia, where his girlfriend lived in Zagreb. He even offered to give us a lift to Zadar (a coastal city three hours away on Croatia's Dalmatian coast, known for its 'Sea Organ') in a couple of days. We couldn’t say no to that!
As evening set in and the Mediterranean breeze cooled, we were eager to check out the nightlife. We wandered down a strip of bars, sampling a few along the way, entertained by musicians performing from their windows above. Eventually, we found ourselves in a blues bar called Booze and Blues where drums hung from the ceiling, walls were adorned with classic memorabilia, and even a beer tap fashioned from a saxophone! As our day’s budget dwindled and the night wound down, I was more than ready to head back to our apartment and dive into that big, inviting bed, dreaming of adventures yet to come.
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