The weather was nothing short of perfection. A cloudless sky, sunlight streaming from every angle, and everything so vibrant it felt as though nature itself was putting on a show. At 8:00am, my boyfriend Jack and I began our ambitious 8-hour hike into the breathtaking High Tatra Mountains.
For those who don't know, the High Tatras are a hiker’s dream and an actual masterpiece where mountains meet wild-flower-covered valleys, crystal-clear lakes, and alpine meadows. It’s a soulful adventure that feels like stepping into a postcard.
This was our second time hiking in this mountain range, and I was excited to be surrounded by towering peaks and mountain goats once again.
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| The beginning of a wander in the woods, Ždiar |
The hike began at the forest’s edge. The warmth of the sun wrapped around me, and the occasional cool, crisp breeze slapping my cheeks, making me feel alive with the pulse of nature. I was ready for this adventure, eager to immerse myself in the sights and sounds of Slovakia's greatest treasure. The forest floor was still damp from the morning dew, and the gentle sound of a stream beside me echoed soothingly, like a calming melody. The rest of the forest lay still, as if holding its breath, waiting for me to pass through.
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| The High Tatra Mountains, which border Slovakia and Poland |
As we ascended a very steep, rocky path, I was so focused on the uneven ground beneath me that I didn’t even realise we had left the forest until I paused to catch my breath. The further we climbed, the more our legs ached from the steep incline, but the reward was the purest scenery that unfolded before us.
Below, the shadows of valleys and hidden caves started to take shape, and it wasn’t until I saw the magnificent view that I truly realised how far I had come. At that moment, I felt completely in tune with everything around me, as though I was on a sacred pilgrimage, searching for the deeper meaning of it all, or something.
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| Small Cold Valley, High Tatra Mountain Rage, Slovakia |
The hike through the valleys was long and gruelling, but Jack and I powered through, rarely complaining, as our adrenaline and determination carried us forward. The higher we climbed, the more people appeared on the trail, which sort of irritated me. We had gotten so used to the solitude that it felt as if it belonged to us only.
As we came over a hill, Kamzik (Alpine Chamois Mountain Goats) appeared. Their sharp eyes locked onto us, observing with an intensity and guarding their territory. They appeared harmless, but still, there was something impulsive in their behaviour that made me hesitant to step off the path. So, I respected their space and left them to their domain. After all, this was their home, and I was just a visitor passing through.
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| Kamzik (Chamois) Goat-Antelope nestled in the grass of the High Tatra Mountains |
It took five long, demanding hours to reach the summit of the Tatras, and by the time we got there, I started to feel strange. Nauseous and completely exhausted, Jack suggested it might be the altitude, and I reluctantly agreed. But we had made it, and the view from the top was nothing short of perfect. Every shade of beauty you could imagine.
As we devoured our tuna and mayonnaise sandwiches, gazing out over the dramatic valleys below, I realised I had lost my sense of wonder. The food tasted bland, and I was so drained that all I could think about was getting into bed. I wasn’t quite used to this kind of physical exertion, so I assumed I had simply pushed myself too hard. After finishing our food, we decided to take a different route back, hoping for a slightly easier descent.
As we made our way down, Jack a little ahead, I began to feel increasingly uneasy. My stomach was bloated, as if I had overeaten, though I hadn’t. I blamed it on the half of bags of crisps I had scoffed down earlier, and perhaps the altitude sickness kicking in. Then, out of nowhere, I stopped in my tracks. I could feel it coming... A wave of nausea that I couldn’t suppress...
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| 'The Belá', which runs through the High Tatra Mountains |
“Nice view,” I thought, as I relieved myself, half-heartedly appreciating the scenery despite the situation. All I wanted to do was soak in the views, but the energy to appreciate anything at all had slipped away. The change in my mindset made everything seem mundane and not very interesting.
After being sick, I felt better and, oddly, a renewed sense of clarity. I was ready to enjoy the hike again. I turned to Jack, smiled, and gestured for some water. As he walked toward me, a wave of exhaustion hit like a freight train. I wanted to collapse on the spot. This wasn’t just ordinary tiredness; it was a total drain of energy. Yet there was only one way back home. I had to force myself down the mountain.
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| The village of Ždiar in the distance |
The walk back down felt like the longest mission of my life. My mind wandered aimlessly, and a quiet realisation crept in… “F**k’s sake, Jeff,” I muttered under my breath, a traveller who had brought a sickness bug to the hostel a couple of days ago. Despite feeling awful, there was a strange sense of contentment, as if the peaceful appreciation I had felt that morning still lingered, refusing to be overshadowed by my misery.
I tried to embrace the 360-degree view of pure bliss, with no one in sight, but my moments of serenity were constantly interrupted as I vomited again, and again, and again. Jack stayed by my side, offering comforting words, but I was so sluggish and miserable that every time I opened my mouth, I feared I would be sick.
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| Malá Studená Dolina (Small Cold Valley), High Tatra Mountains |
Everything felt so different now, and I was barely conscious and beyond dehydrated. At one point, I could actually understand Frodo Baggins’ when he was climbing Mount Doom, swatting away hallucinations, lost in a daze, and having some kind of out-of-body experience. Yes, it all sounds very dramatic, but I was in such a foul state that I couldn’t even be bothered to wipe away the slobber that was drooling down my mouth.
“Why is this taking so long?” and “Water, Harry” (a Harry Potter joke) were the only things running through my mind. We still had a couple of hours to go, and my body was already screaming for a bed.
“Oh sh*t!” Jack blurted out.
“Oh, what now… We’re not lost, are we?” I rolled my eyes, irritated.
“We have no more water left.”
Sh*t.
