I stepped off the ferry and caught my first glimpse of this quaint, little island, and a wave of happiness washed over me. It was as if every muscle in my body, tight from years of city life, had finally relaxed, settling comfortably back into place. As the mist lifted and the sea air cleared, Islay emerged before us, teasing us with its charm.
When my boyfriend’s family invited me to join them on an eight-hour drive to Islay in a crowded minivan with 16 people, my immediate response was, "Where's that? Sixteen people? Eight hours?!" A quick online search brought up a few scenic photos, and I thought to myself, "It looks ok... But sure, why not?" Having no idea that this little island would leave such an unforgettable mark on me.
I won’t drag you through all the standard Wikipedia-style details, but here’s a quick rundown: Islay, known as the "Queen of the Hebrides," is Scotland’s fifth-largest island, with a population of just over 3,200. With around 130 miles of rugged coastline, it’s home to eight renowned whisky distilleries, stunning landscapes, abundant wildlife, and some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet.
After an eight-hour drive from Coventry to Glasgow and a two-hour drive from Glasgow to Kennacraig, passing by the immense Scottish lochs and glens every step of the way, including the infamous Loch Lomond, and a two-hour ferry ride from Kennacraig to Port Askaig, we had almost arrived. We just had one final drive to Port Charlotte (where we were staying for the week). With each passing mile, the island's beauty deepened—the grass grew greener, the sky bluer—and I found myself eagerly absorbing every detail as if I were in a race to capture it all first.
We stayed in a hostel called Port Charlotte, in a town also called Port Charlotte. Now, I don't have much experience of hostels but from what I know and have heard, Port Charlotte felt more like an exciting, new place you visit on a school trip—bringing me right back to childhood. There were bunk beds, separate rooms for the girls and boys (plus a spot for the married couples and the older folks), a large shared kitchen and dining area with three big tables, and even a drying room for our soaked gear. Stepping into that space, I felt a rush of freedom, like I’d travelled back in time, ready to join my classmates in collecting our walking boots and kayaks from a shed nearby in Dol-y-Moch.
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| View from Port Charlotte Hostel |
The reception staff, Karl and Lorna, couldn’t have been more welcoming. They were a warm, friendly couple who ran the hostel for nine months each year and spent the remaining months travelling. They told us that we had the entire place to ourselves, creating the perfect setting for a family-style experience.
After some good-natured squabbling over bunk beds and rooms, we all headed off to explore the Isle of Islay. It rained on and off that first afternoon, but around 6:00pm, the sun broke through. Walking through fields surrounded by sheep and the open sea, we were rewarded with the most beautiful rainbow.
We visited several spots on Islay that I’d highly recommend if you ever make the trip. Here are four of my favourites, where we met some wonderfully friendly and fascinating locals:
We had dinner at a cosy little restaurant to celebrate my boyfriend's Uncle Duncan’s birthday. With all 16 of us filling up the place, it felt intimate and unpretentious, the kind of restaurant/pub that puts you right at ease. The staff, all local and wonderfully friendly, took real pride in their work and seemed to genuinely enjoy sharing their guests' experiences at their family-run spot. The food was unbelievably fresh—and I mean fresh. Just as the waitress was finishing up the birthday boy's order, apologising for the absence of mussels that would be missing from the seafood platter, two young girls burst in wearing wetsuits, having just come back with the day’s catch—the mussels! I ordered steak pie with chips and gravy, and honestly, it was probably the best pie I’ve ever had.
It was a fantastic experience! I had no idea how fascinating it would be to watch and learn about the production of Laphroaig whisky, a unique gem of Islay. The tour included a chance to sample some of the ingredients, and there was a whisky tasting at the end. Even though I’m not a fan of whisky, I still had a great time!
3. Finlaggan
This experience was more historical, focusing on Finlaggan and the Lordship of the Isles. The settlement, located in Loch Finlaggan, dates back to the 14th century. It’s a peaceful and very green spot to explore, and I highly recommend visiting on a dry day.
4. Port Wemyss
Port Wemyss was my favourite place we visited. The moment we drove in, I fell in love with it. Picture a small, tranquil village with whitewashed cottages and stunning views of the sea and seals at every turn. It had a peaceful, family-oriented atmosphere that made you feel instantly welcome. We strolled along the rocks and hills to get a closer look at the wild seals, which was an amazing experience. Later, we enjoyed coffee and cake at Burnside Lodge, a casual family-run café in a converted fishing house. We sat in the front garden, completely relaxed, soaking in the beautiful view before us.
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| The Beach in Port |
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| Laphroaig Whiskey Distillery, Port Ellen |
Islay is perfect for anyone who loves scenic holidays and craves a pause from city life. When you visit, you’ll appreciate the freedom of car-free roads, the serene and uplifting atmosphere, and the breathtaking landscapes. And be sure to keep an eye out for the friendly "Islay wave!
How high the gulls fly O'er Islay
How sad the farm lad deep in play
Felt like a grain on your sand
How well the sheep's bell music makes
Roving the cliff when fancy takes
Felt like a tide left me here
How blessed the forest with birdsong
How neat the cut peat laid so long
Felt like a seed on your land.
- Isle of Islay, Donovan
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